There are historians who say that under the pontificate of Avignon Pope John XXII, chefs began to wear tall, white hats. At the time of this pope, very fond of mustard, he was visited by people from his native country and distant relatives from Rouergues, all possessors of the science of mustard, and they were placed in the mustard shop, golden threads, according to their antiquity , in the hats that they started to wear.
Other authors say that the first mention made of the chef's hat is made by Abbé Coyer, a Jesuit, tutor to the Prince of Touraine, chaplain of
the Royal Cavalry, author of travel books, who describes the cook as a richly dressed man, carries a sword at his waist, wears diamonds on his fingers and occasionally takes out a gold box of monkfish, he is distinguished from the Duke of Orleans by the cap that use and no more. The abbe was a friend of The Varenne, the cook of the Marquis de Uxelles, author of the stew bible "L´école des Ragouts".
There are cooks who allowed themselves to be painted with their hats, as was the case with the great imaginative Laguipiére, who by the way is also known as "The Great Turk".
Careme, the cook of Talleyrans, the wise man among the wise men in the kitchen At the Congress of Vienna, 1814-1815, he had a large satin cap with small gold flowers, and he did not take it off from anyone in his domain, nor from Alexander of Russia, over whom he exercised the right of preference.
The Tsar asked who is that insolent? The kitchen Talleyrans replied. Yes, it was all the kitchen, inside that privileged head that was that of the great Careme. (someday I will tell you the story of this Great among the Greats of the kitchen who without knowing how to read or write, at the age of ten his father put him on the streets of Paris abandoned to his fate, this great man apart from learning kitchen, learned to write, draw, architecture etc.). The tsar who was no fool hired him to be at his service for some time.
Another who portrayed himself with his hat was Noel, (cook of Frederick the Great of Prussia), who was discussing poetry with Voltaire. Noel was the first to add chocolate to a partridge sauce. Noel, with the permission of Frederick, put a pheasant feather on the hat with the Prussian coat of arms. From what has been read so far, what is certain is that the caps were already in common use in the XNUMXth century and that they became general after the Congress of Vienna.
A large number of dishes and sauces come from this congress, but I will leave it for another day to publish notes on these new dishes.